Freelander I tüüpvead (iniglise keeles)

Kui on mured 1998-2006 Freelander I (L314) ja 2007-2014 II (L359) põlvkonnaga

Moderaatorid: inseneer, landy

Vasta
Kasutaja avatar
landy
Site Admin
Site Admin
Postitusi: 10293
Liitunud: R Juul 01, 2005 17:31
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kontakt:

Freelander I tüüpvead (iniglise keeles)

Postitus Postitas landy »

Land Rover Freelander
1997-06
Quick Summary
Possibly the most incompetently designed and built
four-wheel drive in history.
How Reliable?
Appalling. See ‘what goes wrong’ below ☛
How Safe?
Dodgy, but see the safety summary below ☛

The Freelander was offered in two basic versions: a three-door and a
five-door, with variations such as convertible roof on three-door versions.
Most people opted for five-door versions due to the near-total
lack of space in the rear of three-door versions.
The Freelander had a visual freshen-up in 2002, with some of the
more dire mechanical bits replaced with bits that were almost as bad.
5 All content Š The Dog & Lemon Guide 2012 All rights reserved
The Freelander’s height above small passenger cars and commanding
driving position make it a satisfying city commuter. Many of the
Freelander’s owners have been urban women, which is unsurprising,
because the Freelander is more suited to small-to-average sized rather
than tall people.
In order to gain that SUV sense of elevation and importance, the
front seats have been positioned far too high, so that tall people will
find their heads hitting the roof. Tall people will also find it difficult
to see clearly out the front windscreen. Worse, there’s no height
adjustment for the front seats. There’s no need for this high seating
position; it’s just designed to make small people feel bigger.
For small-to-average sized people, the Freelander’s front seats are
comfortable and reasonably supportive. There’s a panoramic view of
the road in front.
Depending on how much you spent, your Freelander could get
leather and other luxury add-ons, none of very good quality.

The Freelander’s cabin is a strange combination of simple functionality
and weird dysfunctionality. Many of the switches seem to
have been positioned by someone throwing them at random towards
the front of the vehicle. Much of the switchgear was of dubious quality,
even when new, and these vehicles are a long way from new.
The Freelander’s rear passengers are treated as second-class citizens.
The doorways are too small, while the seats themselves are small, flat,
unsupportive benches.

There were four engine options with the Freelander: a 1.8-litre
petrol, a 2.5-litre V6 petrol, a lethargic Rover 2-litre diesel and a
more sprightly BMW-sourced 2-litre diesel. Of the four engines, the
two diesels are easily the best of a very bad bunch. The Rover 1.8
and 2.5 V6 petrol engines were designed by Satan and assembled by
monkeys. Many Freelander owners needed new petrol engines from
as little as 10,000km from new. Few engines made it to 50,000km;
almost none made it to 70,000km. Due to design flaws within these
engines, a total – and very expensive – rebuild is the only option
once they blow their head gaskets, which they all do.
The diesels, as we have said, are the best of a bad bunch, although
they, too, are a long way from perfect. Early Rover diesel engines
have a nasty habit of breaking timing belts at low mileages, destroying
much of the engine in the process. Later (BMW) diesel engines
often blow their turbochargers and they’re massively expensive to fix.
Gearbox options were a five-speed manual and a five-speed automatic.
The automatics have a ‘Steptronic’ option that allows the
driver to select when the automatic changes gear. The manual gearbox
was notchy (hard to select gears) from new and is prone to early
failure, although it’s still light years ahead of its automatic sibling.
All Freelander versions have four-wheel drive, but it’s a roadoriented
system. In normal mode it drives just the front wheels. The
back wheels come into play only when the front wheels begin slipping.
Not an ideal system in genuine offroad situations.

Compared to many modern equivalents, the Freelander is not an
especially pleasant drive. The ride is roly-poly on bends, the steering
is slow and, under pressure, the Freelander prefers continuing in a
straight line instead of navigating sharp corners. However, the Freelander
is a nice vehicle on long, straight roads.
Reliability aside, the petrol engines aren’t especially frugal. The 1.8
petrol is always working too hard and therefore drinks too much.
The 2.5 petrol is more relaxed and is pleasant to drive on all types
of roads, but still drinks like a fish. The two diesel engines are both
brilliantly economical and pleasant to drive on the open road. The
early (Rover) diesel engine feels a bit like a pensioner and doesn’t like
sudden overtaking. The later (BMW) diesel is in its element on the
open road.
However, neither of the two diesels like city traffic. The drive becomes
lurchy and buzzy and there’s invariably a long pause between
putting your foot down and anything useful happening. This long
pause, known as turbo lag, often makes it very stressful to try and enter
a stream of fast-moving traffic. In stop-start rush hour traffic you
proceed in a series of low-speed lurches.
In line with Land Rover’s vast experience with four-wheel drive vehicles,
the Freelander’s offroad handling is surprisingly good. We say
surprisingly good because this car was designed with the sure knowledge
that most owners of such vehicles might hit a dirt track perhaps
once or twice a year, if that. It’s an everyday city car that can also be
driven off the road. A bit.
However, while the Freelander is great on muddy paddocks and
sand dunes, it lacks the low gearing required to navigate the really
tricky bits. Moreover, the Freelander’s Hill Descent Control, which
is meant to ensure that you don’t start skidding while descending
slippery banks, operates at too high a speed to be of much use in
many real-life offroad situations.
Even if this vehicle were reliable you’d be brave taking it anywhere
more rugged than a farmer’s field. Early versions quickly developed
cracks in the chassis even after being driven around town. A large
hunk of the rear suspension (the cross member) is liable to unceremoniously
part company with the rest of the vehicle on versions
before 2004. Remember that underneath the butch offroad looks,
the Freelander is really a modified 1980s Honda Civic body on stilts.
It simply can’t stand the rough stuff.
At least Honda knew how to make a reliable vehicle. By comparison,
the Rover Freelander was released onto the market with over
132 serious faults, all of which were known to Land Rover management
as the vehicles rolled out the door.

Early versions for motoring journalists were hand-picked, because
anything else was likely to break down. Every single customer reliability
survey has placed these vehicles somewhere near the very bottom.
The only offroad vehicle that did worse, in fact, was the previous
model Range Rover. Ford’s brief ownership of Land Rover at the
turn of the century did not result in any significant improvement in
quality.
The Land Rover Freelander, in case you have thusfar missed our
point, is a truly dreadful vehicle. No matter how much you like the
looks or the price, the Freelander is off the buyer’s list for any sane
person. The most likely reason that the version you’re looking at is
for sale is because the previous owner has just gone bankrupt from
paying for repairs. No matter how cheap, these vehicles are a very,
very bad joke, and the joke is invariably on the poor fool who buys
one.
If you buy a Land Rover Freelander, you deserve everything
you get.

Engine problems
• Blown head gaskets are very common on Rover K-series petrol
engines, due to abysmal engine design. All Rover K-series engines use
steel cylinder liners in an aluminium block. Because the engine block
and cylinder head are composed of different materials, they expand
at different rates when they heat up during running of the vehicle.
Because the steel liners are harder than the alloy block, they gradually
work their way down into the block. When they get low enough, the
cylinder liners leave a gap at the top that allows exhaust gases to leak
out of the combustion chamber, and eventually these leaking exhaust
gases eat away at the head gasket, causing the head gasket to fail.
By the time the head gasket blows, the damage to the engine block
means that the entire engine must be rebuilt (there is no economically
viable way of repairing this damage). A secondhand engine is
likely to be nearly as bad as the one you are replacing • See our general
head gasket warning at the end of this review.
• Inlet manifold gaskets die young on 1.8 petrol motors, leading
to coolant loss, and then overheating and blown head gaskets. Early
models are worst. Later models are better, but only by comparison.
The head gaskets on earlier vehicles can be upgraded, but often by
the time a head gasket is blown, the engine block is wrecked as well.
• The accelerator of 1.8 petrol models jams on. This has been
linked to a number of accidents.
• The HT leads on petrol versions are prone to chafing against the
engine or air intake, causing misfiring.
• The timing belt on petrol engines must be replaced (along with
all accompanying parts, including tensioners and water pump) at
115,000km or catastrophic engine damage may occur (that’s in theory;
in practice, few petrol engines ever get to this ripe old age without
blowing up from other causes).

On early (Rover-sourced) diesel engines the recommended replacement
interval is 75,000km, but many specialists replace the timing
belt and all its accessories at least every 60,000km in order to avoid
catastrophe. A replacement kit that extends the life of the belt is
available, but it is extremely labour-intensive to install. Later (BMWsourced)
diesel engines use a timing chain, not a belt, and this is
meant to last the lifetime of the engine. • See our article ‘A Question
of Timing’ in the links page that follows this review.
• The early diesel engines (an L-series Rover unit) have a number
of issues: they develop oil leaks, which tend to mean a tired engine,
especially if accompanied by rattles and blue smoke. However, they
frequently leak around the oil filter simply because the oil filter
wasn’t tightened enough. More seriously, the ECU and air flow meter
lose the plot with time and replacement is often the only option.
Symptoms include loss of power and/or hard starting and/or rough
idle. Please note that the ECU is extremely prone to damage caused
by jump starting.
L-series cylinder heads sometimes go porous around the glow
plugs. It is also important that the cooling system is bled properly
after coolant change, or air locks may cause the engine to overheat.
Overheating one of these will cause head gasket / cylinder head failure,
which is often extremely expensive to fix.
• See our general head gasket warning at the end of this review.
See also our timing belt warning above. Like any diesel, injectors
and glow plugs die with time. Therefore, if these have not already
been replaced, they’ll probably need doing soon. Diesel pumps for
these engines are now dying regularly and are increasingly difficult
to buy cheaply. Turbochargers rarely last as long as the engine they’re
bolted to.
• The BMW-sourced TD4 diesel engine is prone to problems earlier
than the Rover diesel engine simply because it works harder. The
TD4’s electric diesel pumps fail regularly. The engine wiring harness
is also prone to connection problems and damage caused by rubbing
against the engine. Land Rover put out a modified harness in an attempt
to solve these problems (see the recall below, which regrettably
only covers a limited number of petrol-engined cars).

TD4s also give the usual diesel problems such as faulty air flow
meter, fuel cut-off solenoids, air-contaminated fuel, blocked fuel
filter, leaky vacuum pipes, faulty injectors, camshaft position sensors,
glow plugs and, more expensively, the ECU. The injectors are a common
failure point. The worst fault on the TD4, however, is turbocharger
failure, which is reasonably common. Due to access problems,
to replace the turbocharger you need to remove the injectors,
rocker cover, air cleaner box and intercooler. This is a very expensive
repair.
Turbocharger failure is often caused by a blocked or restricted
engine breather system. On the TD4, there’s a crankcase breather
assembly mounted within the camshaft valve cover. Most diesel specialists
recommend that this breather assembly be replaced regularly.
The EGR valve must also be regularly cleaned and/or replaced, because
if either the breather system or EGR stops working properly,
the crankcase may become over-pressurised and blow the turbo.
The other really expensive repair is camshaft replacement (there
are two), which also requires the timing chain and tensioners to be
replaced and is horrifically labour-intensive. Camshaft repair is usually
done on engines that are being overhauled anyway but sometimes
occurs where owners haven’t changed the oil regularly, meaning the
lobes start wearing out. The engine then starts getting really rattly.
Last but not least, these engines blow head gaskets at high mileages
or if overheated badly and some will need a replacement cylinder
head afterwards as well • See our general head gasket warning at the
end of this review.
• Rattly exhausts often need replacement or repair.

Recalls
Freelander models built between August & November
2000 • The engine wiring harness rubs against the fusebox,
possibly causing failure of half the car’s electronics, including headlamps,
engine management, cooling fans, fuel pump, ignition circuit, air-conditioning,
anti-lock braking (although brakes will still function) and hill
descent control. VIN numbers:
1A576764 – 1A599999; 1A200000 – 1A312726
Google ☛ Vosa R/2001/018

Gearbox & drivetrain problems
• Total manual gearbox failure is common. The common symptoms
are an excessively notchy gearchange, a noisy gearbox and/or oil
leaks.
• Clutches are prone to severe wear if the vehicle has been used for
towing, and they can be expensive to replace. Clutch master and
slave cylinders are a common failure item, too, along with the wimpy
bracket that the slave is mounted on.
• The Steptronic automatic gearbox gives major grief. Total failure
anytime from 60,000km is commonplace. This gearbox wasn’t a rock
of stability to start with, and things haven’t improved with age. Using
one of these transmissions for significant amounts of towing all but
guarantees expensive failure (check for scratches on the towball). The
transmission fluid requires replacement every 40,000km, and this
job is by no means as easy as it sounds. Jatco, the company that built
the transmission, advises that it’s critical that the correct amount of
the correct fluid is added. The problem is, the gearbox fluid level
needs to be checked at the correct temperature, and this requires
diagnostic equipment that most owners and some garages don’t have.
The Freelander Jatco transmission requires different transmission
fluid (LRN-402) to other Land Rover vehicles, and using the wrong
fluid can harm the transmission. As if that wasn’t bad enough, the
transfer case is cooled via an oil cooler hooked up to the rest of the
cooling system.When the coolant fluid is changed, it’s easy for air
locks to form in the thin pipes linking the oil cooler to the main radiator.
There are bleed nipples for the oil cooler, but they are a hassle
to locate and operate. Many garages don’t know they exist. If bubbles
block the oil cooler, the transfer case, transmission and sometimes
the engine itself can overheat, with disastrous consequences. Last,
but not least: the gearchange solenoids are fairly fragile and die quite
young. Usually 3rd, 4th and 5th go first. Changing them is neither
easy nor cheap.
• The viscous coupling (fitted inline with the rear driveshaft) often
dies young. It’s expensive of course, but if not replaced in time it
trashes the transfer case and/or rear differential.

The viscous coupling hanger bearings almost invariably need replacing
at the same time. The easiest test of the viscous coupling is to
drive the vehicle forward at a low speed and turn the steering wheel
from lock to lock. A failed viscous coupling will cause the transmission
to wind up, which has the effect of gently bringing the vehicle
to a halt as if the handbrake had been lightly applied. The tyres will
often show signs of unusual wear as well. If there’s the slightest doubt
about the viscous coupling, it must be replaced, or the resultant
damage will be horrific:
• The transfer case – called the Intermediate Reduction Drive (IRD)
on the Freelander – is a common failure point. The problem is usually
caused by seizure of the viscous coupling unit on the driveshaft.
This causes the transmission to wind up, and the IRD is the part
that breaks first. The IRD is very expensive to replace and secondhand
versions are a poor option. If the IRD is fitted without replacing
the seized viscous coupling, then the IRD will re-fail within
a short time. The oil in the IRD needs replacing roughly every
20,000km, and failure to change the oil will wreck the unit. Whining
is a sure sign of impending doom. However, a vibration from the
transmission at speed may simply be a broken upper support bracket
at the transfer case.
• The rear differential commonly fails, at great expense. The symptom
is a whining or rumbling from the rear while driving. Differential
failure may also be caused by a seizure of the viscous coupling
unit on the driveshaft. There are two rear differentials fitted to the
Freelander: the earlier version is the worst. After repeated failures a
stronger replacement was fitted. However, the later differential is still
prone to failure. As with the transfer case, if the seized viscous coupling
is not replaced, the problem will recur. The oil in the differential
needs replacing roughly every 20,000km, and failure to change
the oil will wreck the unit. There’s no drain plug, so the backing
plate must be removed or the oil sucked out through the filler plug.
• Driveshaft bearings can fail at very low mileages. Noise from the
driveshafts may also be worn hanger support bearings.
• Hill descent control dies young on many versions. This problem
is often caused by a failure of the ABS unit (see brake and safety problems).
• Freelanders have a heavy appetite for front tyres, due to the poor
design of the four-wheel drive system. Later models are better, but
only by comparison.
Steering & suspension problems
• Dysfunctional power steering is common. The power steering reservoir
tends to leak from the bottom hose. This is a hassly job due to
access problems.The steering pump also dies. Please note that there
are multiple versions of the Freelander steering pump, and they’re
generally not interchangeable. The steering rack itself is also fairly
prone to problems, and they’re not always obvious. Even if the rack
doesn’t leak a drop, the torque collar sometimes comes adrift inside
and the rack begins to behave erratically. You’re likely to get heavy
steering at parking and overly light steering at speed. There may also
be a screech as you turn in one direction. Complete rack replacement
is the only option. Please note that there are also several different versions
of the Freelander steering rack, and they’re generally not interchangeable.
However, a slight noise when turning at low speeds may
be simply caused by vibration of the power steering pipes.
• Suspension damage is common if the vehicle has been used on
rough roads or offroad.
• Typical front suspension failure points are the lower arm bushes,
anti-roll bar link arms and mounting bushes, steering rack ends and
struts.
• Typical rear suspension failure points are the rear trailing arm bushes,
rear inner & outer lower link bushes, rear adjusting link bushes,
together with the rear shock absorbers. A knocking from the back of
the vehicle is likely to be broken differential mounts.
• Unevenly worn or scrubbed tyres suggests that the rear driveshaft
viscous coupling is dead. Viscous coupling failure will wreck large
parts of the drivetrain (see drivetrain problems above).
• Road noise is often the result of suspension bush wear. Low profile
tyres also compromise the ride quality and produce noise on rough
road surfaces. However, the problem may also be worn wheel bearings:
• Wheel bearings are frequently worn out and it’s not always obvious
when you jack up the wheel and spin or wobble it. If in doubt, you
need to jack up all four wheels at once and get someone to start the
engine and run through the gears while you crouch near each wheel
in turn. Worn wheel bearings can then be easily heard. However, it’s
important that the driver doesn’t use the brakes to slow the wheels
down after the test is done, or it may confuse the ABS system and
cause error messages to be displayed. Just let the wheels spin to a
halt on their own. It’s also worth noting that it’s sometimes hard to
distinguish between wheel bearing noise and driveshaft noise. Moreover,
both the wheel and driveshaft bearings are often worn out at
the same time.
• On early models, a creak from the rear end while cornering at slow
speeds means the rear subframe is loose in its mountings. This problem
was the subject of a recall (see below), which means it’s Land
Rover’s problem, not yours. Some garages were unaware of the recall
and simply welded the rear subframe in place, which is effective, but
not an ideal solution.

Recalls
Freelander models built between 12 & 29 August
2003 • The rear subframe may not be correctly fastened to the
body and could potentially come loose. VIN numbers:
SALLNABE13A286419–SALLNABG23A289164
Google ☛ Vosa R/2004/165

Brake & safety problems
• Front brakes can bind on early versions.
• The handbrake cables and adjusters can bind on all versions.
• The front brake lines (under the plastic front guards) sometimes
rust.
• The airbag control ECU is prone to failure due to receiving corrupt
calibration data and the symptom is the airbag warning light
on. Replacement is often the only option, although it’s wise to check
the various connections to make sure the problem is not simply a
loose wire. The ECU is on the transmission tunnel under the heater
box below the dashboard. Theoretically getting the ECU out requires
dashboard removal, but many mechanics instead discreetly cut the
carpet to get to the ECU. Please note also that this problem may be
triggered by other warning systems within the vehicle.
• The ABS unit is prone to both electronic and mechanical problems.
The Wabco ABS unit combines the ECU, pump & modulators
and also handles the Hill Descent Control. The ABS wheel sensors
die with age. If the ABS warning light is on, the problem may be
any or all of the above. However if the ABS/ Hill Descent Control
warning light is on and the Hill Descent Control is not working,
the chances are that the problem is the main ABS unit, which will
require replacement, probably at great expense. One frequent mechanical
problem in the ABS/ Hill Descent Control unit is a sticky
shuttle valve. Occasionally this can be freed by taking the vehicle
into sand or mud and applying the brakes a few times. Worth a shot.
Before you wtite off the ABS unit, it’s also worth checking that the
Hill Descent Control switch and wires are functioning correctly. A
defective brake pedal position switch will also cause the ABS warning
light to illuminate.
• See our general airbag and ABS warning at the end of this review.

Recalls
Freelander models built between 1 October
1997 & 28 February 2001 • Handbrake may self release.
VIN numbers: not disclosed
Google ☛ Vosa R/2004/165
Freelander models built between December
1997 & July 2000 • Child restraint anchor fitting was installed upside
down and may come off in use. VIN numbers: not disclosed. Details
@ dogandlemon.com
Freelander models built between 26 August & 1
October 2004 • The passenger airbag may not have been manufactured
properly and may fail to operate properly in a collision. VIN numbers:
SALLNFAE85A449222 – SALLNABE85A456738
Google ☛ Vosa R/2004/184

Body problems
• The front chassis cracks around the chassis rails on early versions
(later versions were strengthened to prevent this problem). All
versions before 2004 crack around the rear suspension attachment
points if the rear subframe issue is not addressed (see suspension problems).
• Underbody damage is common if the vehicle has been used on
rough roads or offroad.
Interior problems
• Air conditioning dies young and may be very expensive to fix.
• The alarm remote and central locking system were something
of a bad joke from new. Many owners never got the system working
reliably for any length of time. Sometimes the problem is the remote,
sometimes the problem is the door locks and sometimes the problem
is the central locking ECU, or a combination of the three, at random.
• Heater failure is common and may also be a symptom of a major
cooling system/head gasket problem (an overheating engine – especially
one with a leaking head gasket – will pressurise the cooling
system, and the Freelander’s cheap and nasty heater matrix is the
weakest link in an already fairly weak system). The heater matrix
then dumps its contents onto the floor of the cab. This a major repair,
because the heater matrix is located deep inside the centre of
the dashboard. In hot climates some people just block off the heater.
However, many owners underestimate how important a heater can
be when driving in the outback at night. Bear in mind also that the
heater is part of the cooling system; a leaking heater allows the cooling
system to depressurise and therefore potentially overheat or exacerbate
a system that is already overheating.
• Water leaks into the vehicle are common, especially from the sunroof,
tailgate and softtops. The water tends to collect in the rear of
the vehicle, but the condensation will gradually rot out the entire interior
and play havoc with the electrics. It’s worth checking the tool
compartment hatch in the rear floor for water. If it’s wet, the rear
tailgate seal needs replacing, and maybe other seals as well. The rear
door seals die young, especially on three-door versions.
• When you operate the tailgate handle, the window should drop
about 10mm and then rise again automatically when the tailgate
closes. If this doesn’t happen, the electric motor and/or wiring is
faulty. Expensive, of course. If the window goes up and down at random,
the multi function control module is defective.
• Softtops on convertible versions are fairly fragile: the hood splits
and the side windows go cloudy. These hoods are expensive to replace.
• The sunroof often jams open, due to the plastic rail breaking and
distorting.
• The electric windows rarely work properly for long.
• The electric clock display breaks up, meaning you can’t read the
time.
• The stereo fascia sagged from new on early models
• Dashboards warp horribly in the sun.
• The windscreen demister was only marginal on early versions even
when new and is often dead by now, often due to fan failure.
• The driver’s seatback sometimes becomes insecure, which you can
check by wobbling it. See recall below.

Recalls
Freelander models built between 1 August 2000
& 28 February 2001 • The front seat backrest may not latch properly
after using the seat tip lever, and could attempt to fold forward if the
vehicle stops suddenly.
VIN numbers: 1A578669 – 1A599999; 1A300000 – 1A320519
Google ☛ Vosa R/2001/017
Freelander models built between 1 November
2000 & 30 April 2005 • The child safety lock on the left rear door may
fail.
VIN numbers:
SALLNABE82A00225225–SALLNABE82A00238171; SALLNABH21A300642–
SALLNFBE85A486387
Google ☛ Vosa R/2004/076 and Vosa R/2005/083

Electrical problems
Freelander petrol models built between 7 July 2000
& 18 March 2002 • Pin 5 of the diagnostic socket was not fitted with a
ground. A pin must be fitted to position 5 and wired to earth.
VIN numbers: 1A 576764 – 2A 397466
Google ☛ Vosa R/2002/041
• Chronic electronic nightmares come standard with some versions
of these cars

EuroNCAP crashtests
This rating is not nearly as good as it seems. When
looking at the frontal test data closely, we note that the Freelander
got just 38 out of a possible 100 in its head-on crashtest. The Freelander’s
reasonable side-impact rating (72) meant an acceptable overall
result, although the good side-impact result has got more to do
with the height of the vehicle than with good crash impact design
(EuroNCAP testers run a ram into the side of the vehicle. Because
this ram is about average car height, if the vehicle being tested is
higher than normal, then the ram tends to pass underneath, thereby
sparing passengers the impact). In actual road smashes the driver of
a smaller (lighter) car is far more likely to die than the driver of the
larger (heavier) vehicle it collides with. (A Daewoo Matiz weighs
about 725kg and a Range Rover weighs about 2500kg. This vehicle
weighs about 1500kg, depending on the model). See our
comments on ‘Four-wheel Drives & Safety’ in the links page that follows
this review, and also our general comments on safety there.

VIN PLATE LOCATION: On the passenger side of the dashboard,
designed to be viewed through the windscreen
ENGINE TYPE & SIZE: (petrol)
• 1.8 K-series 1796cc OHC EFI
• 2.5 KV V6 2497cc DOHC 24v MPI
(diesel)
• 2.0 L-series 20T 1998cc SOHC EFI or
TD4 1951cc DOHC 16v turbo
RECOMMENDED FUEL/S: (petrol) Premium
HOW MUCH FUEL?: Realistic urban averages:
(petrol)
• 1.8 13.5 litres/100km • 7.4 km/litre • 21 mpg
• 2.5 17.5 litres/100km • 5.7 km/litre • 16 mpg
(diesel) (auto)
• 2.0 9.1 litres/100km • 11 km/litre • 31 mpg
Safety
PROPER SEATBELTS THROUGHOUT: Yes (However, remember
that the Freelander seats only four)
PROPER SPARE TYRE: Yes
ANTI–SKID BRAKING (ABS): Standard
AIRBAGS: Dual standard, most models. A few have only a driver bag
MTÜ Eesti Land Roveri Klubi
-----------------------------------
SERIES II A 109"( '70 )-"Tindiplekk" / LR90 ( '88 )- "Inetu Pardipoeg" + palju unistusi
Kristjan Vaarmann (+372)5010599 kristjan.vaarmann@landroverclub.ee
Land Rover'iga nakatatud ja mudas müttamas aastast 1996!
Kasutaja avatar
landy
Site Admin
Site Admin
Postitusi: 10293
Liitunud: R Juul 01, 2005 17:31
Asukoht: Tallinn
Kontakt:

Re: Freelander I tüüpvead (iniglise keeles)

Postitus Postitas landy »

HOW TO REBUILD THE SUNROOF ON A FREELANDER 1

http://www.landroveraddict.com/land-rov ... eelander-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
MTÜ Eesti Land Roveri Klubi
-----------------------------------
SERIES II A 109"( '70 )-"Tindiplekk" / LR90 ( '88 )- "Inetu Pardipoeg" + palju unistusi
Kristjan Vaarmann (+372)5010599 kristjan.vaarmann@landroverclub.ee
Land Rover'iga nakatatud ja mudas müttamas aastast 1996!
Kasutaja avatar
Erik256
MT-rehvid ja muda!
Postitusi: 148
Liitunud: N Sept 25, 2014 10:16
Asukoht: Tallinn

Re: Freelander I tüüpvead (iniglise keeles)

Postitus Postitas Erik256 »

Siin on esimesest postitusest oluliselt vähememotsionaalne ülevaade Freelander 1-st.

https://www.lro.com/reviews/land-rover- ... 4x4-review" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
2007 Defender 110 TDCi
2002 Discovery 2A Td5 aut (müüdud).
Vasta

Mine “Tehnilised küsimused-Freelander”